Wari Chora : Portal to Another Universe
Hello all,
“I came across a fallen tree,
I felt the branches of it looking at me.
Is this the place we used to love?
Is this the place that I’ve been dreaming of?”
– Keane (Somewhere only we know)
I thought of this, the moment I saw the fallen tree in the canyon! It was so dreamy that I wondered: is it justified to write about it?
Have you ever been to some places where you don’t feel like leaving? You don’t know how to describe its beauty! You are nearly speechless in front of that wonder! These all have happened to us. Yes! I am talking about Wari Chora. You may see thousands of pictures. You may see hundreds of reels or YouTube vlogs, but nothing will do justice to the beauty of this place.
You are too tired after 10–11 hours journeys through bumpy roads. You are exhausted after a 45-minute off-road drive, which is terrifying in some places. You are physically drained after a short but almost 80-degree vertical trail hike. All these, but still, you are high on adrenalin, dopamine, serotonin, and all the happy hormones you know the name of! Why?
Because let me start with the most basic one: it is one of the most off-beaten places in Meghalaya. Because one look at the canyon or the picture of the canyon and you will be awestruck. Because chameleon-like rocks create the illusion of changing colours with sunlight. Because you will have to wait until a particular time for sunlight to hit the waterfalls, creating magical rainbows in mysterious canyons. Because the blue water is so captivating, causing contrast with gigantic rocks of copper, orange, rust, and all shades of green. Because the view is so enigmatic, you will feel like you are in a different universe. Because once you travel through this canyon, you won’t be the same person again. Because you will feel that you were missing a part of yourself up until now and you didn’t even realize it till today (just like what we feel in the Himalayas too). Because you are so dumbfounded by the place that you want to go again and again in that kayak, just like us. Because seeing this wonder will make you shout like crazy due to euphoria and make you cry like a baby simultaneously. Because at that moment, you want to press a pause button and stop the time. Because you will realize that if places like this exist in the world, then you want to explore every such corner, no matter what. Because you want a special corner in your heart and soul in the name of this place, as if singing the lyrics of the song from Merry Christmas, ‘Tere dil me khali si hai jo jagah, usmein Muje raaz sa rah jaane se’ (There is an empty corner in your heart; let me stay there as a secret), and you definitely accept it wholeheartedly with wide open arms!
I had these feelings three times previously during my travels to Dzukou Valley, the endless meadows of Dayara Bugyal, and Niagara Falls. And now Wari Chora has a permanent place in the crevices of my heart. Let me tell you, there are no numbers in this list because all these places have beauty of their own.
Meaning of Wari Chora:
It is a small canyon with mountains on both sides and a river flowing in between. In the local Garo language, Wari means river. Chora means long. Wari Chora means a long, deep river. The river Rongdik passes through the region, which is a tributary of the Simsang River, which is the river that passes from Meghalaya to Bangladesh.
There is a folk tale associated with Wari Chora. They say it is the land of the seven giant serpents. And people believe that if you disrespect nature and your surroundings, you have to face the consequences. While some believe that it is home to a mermaid.
Location:
It is located in the South Garo Hills and is now one of the main tourist attractions in the region, thanks to social media. Baghmara is the nearest major town, which is also the main town of the south Garo region. The nearest villages are Dabalgre and Emangre.
Our journey:
During our Meghalaya trip, we went there last, and I am thankful for that. Initially, we were going to cover it first, but I am glad that we didn’t, because if we had seen this first, all the other places might have lessened their charm. The state has so much to offer, and the South Garo Hills are the least explored in it. Garo Hills are the least travelled hills in Meghalaya. But now, due to social media, people have started to show interest in developing tourism as a source of income. But still, it is in the infant stage.
We had our stay in Baghmara, which is 36 km away from Emangre village (the starting point of Wari Chora). We reached there late, so we were a little bit anxious. But we are glad that we went there rather than staying in Emangre. Because Mr. Chengreng Sangma is one of the kindest homestay owners we have met. He took personal care of us and was ready to help us in every way. He has arranged our next-day stay in Siju village because it will be more suitable and comfortable for us, despite our reservations at his place. The food was also amazing, and so was the room.
We started our journey early the next day, and he gave us a packed breakfast as well. Once we reached there, we met our guide, who had also arranged a 4×4 vehicle for us.
The off-road journey is also adventurous, with bumpy, narrow roads. You will pass in between the fields, with panoramic views of the Garo hills in between. There are twists and turns on some forest roads. After about 45–55 minutes of travel, you will get to the starting point of the trek. The distance of the off-road path was about 15 km.
At the parking site, there are a few snack stalls and bamboo huts. When we reached it, it was closed. The trail is through dense forest, with an easy and flat section in the initial part. But the last part of the trail is treacherous, with an almost 80-degree descent. Luckily, the locals have made bamboo stairs, so it was a little easier for us.
It took almost an hour to reach the river. The trail is not well marked, and you have to have a local person with you. When we reached the river, a few inflated kayaks and rafts were already there, and a few people were coming back. But we stood there just in anticipation of what was ahead of us.
Once we removed our shoes and wore our life jackets, we were all set for the magical land ahead of us. And when we reached the mouth of the canyon, we were all silent. Silent just because of the sheer beauty of the place. We didn’t have any words to describe this beauty. Where shall we see? The turquoise colour of a river or orange, copper, rust, green, jade green, olive green, or brown shades of rocks? The fallen tree trunks giving off a tranquil vibe or enchanting sunlight playing hide and seek with you? The water dripping from the stones or the reflections of water on the stones?
There is one section where the canyon is very narrow, and only two-seater kayaks can go there. They cannot take the raft inside. And in that deep canyon, there is a gushing, milky white waterfall! It was a sight to behold.
After a while, there are shallow waters and a beautiful waterfall. Now you have to walk on the rocks and cross the river. Your guide will take rafts on their shoulders, and then the second stretch of the canyon will start. This part has a few more small falls and water dripping over you, while the first part was more scenic and left you spellbound. The second part will make you overwhelmed with emotions.
At the end of this part, there is a small cascade of falls, and then the rirver is relatively wider with end of the gorge, as per our guide.
We came back, but we were still not satisfied. So we went into the canyon again, but this time only two of us were in the kayak. Kids wanted to play by the river at the entrance, where the water was shallow. Our driver Sanjay Bhaiya, also came with us, so he stayed back with the kids. We were in a canoe, so we went in that narrow section also, deep almost up to the fall. It was creepy but equally thrilling!
This time when we reached the waterfall, it was 12:30 and it was show time for sunlight, causing amazing rainbows at the base of the waterfall. And we were so happy that we came back; otherwise, we would have missed this spectacle.
We started our return journey at around 1, as now the trail was uphill. At the end of the trail, near parking, the stalls were now open. The lady was selling hot samosas, and they were what we needed after a tiring walk. We reached our guide’s place at around 3, where a delicious lunch was waiting for us. It was simply one of the best days of our lives!
Timings of Wari Chora: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Best time to visit:
November to March. The place remains closed from April to October because water levels rise in the river during monsoons.
It was one of the reasons why we selected December to visit Meghalaya.
Clothes to wear:
– Wear rapid-dry clothes. You have to walk in the water at certain places.
– Wear proper trekking shoes, as the forest sections have a few rough patches.
– You have to remove your shoes once you are in the boat.
– Take a waterproof case for your mobile.
Trek level: Moderate
Trek distance: approx. 3–4 km
Trek type: forest sections with bamboo ladders in the last parts.
How to reach?
This is one of the remote places of Meghalaya. So it is better to opt for private transfer. The roads are also not in a good shape.
Distance from Shillong : From Nongstoin – 272 km – appx time 7 hours and 30 minutes.
Distance from Cherrapunji : 295 km – 8 hours.
Distance from Guwahati : 231 km – 6 hours and 30 minutes.
Where to stay?
We stayed in Baghmara at the homestay of Mr. Chengreng Sangma.
There are a few homestays in Emangre, too. Our guide also has a homestay. I am sharing his number too.
But homestays in Emangre are very basic, while in Baghmara, the stay is quite comfortable with good, tasty food and hot water. So if you don’t mind going few kilometres ahead or comfort is the main factor for you, go for Baghmara.
While returning, we stayed in Siju, as we had a flight to catch the next day from Guwahati and we didn’t want to go all the way to Baghmara again. That place was also nice, with a helpful family.
Points to consider.
– You have to have the help of locals to reach the place. It is not even in Google Maps. But that way, you can help locals and provide them with a source of income.
– Please keep the area clean. We must preserve such treasure.
– There are many other tourist attractions in the South Garo Hills, and locals are trying their best to promote tourism in the region.
– The road condition is very bad, so start your journey early.
– Carry enough water for the forest section.
– Lastly, the place has so much potential, and with increased tourism, let’s hope it doesn’t convert into over-tourism and the place doesn’t lose its allure.
Location:
Stay at Bhaghmara: Sarangdu Homestay
Contact number of Sarangdu Homestay : Mr. Chengreng Sangma : 8414061746
Our Guide’s number: 08798510379 : Vishal Homestay
Siju homestay: Siju A.dura Tengkigittim
Contact number Siju Homestay: 6009612798
And all these would not have been possible without Mr. Ratan from Experience destination
So, this is Wari Chora for you. Don’t miss it whenever you are in Meghalaya, even if you have to travel to another universe with countless troubles!
And please don’t forget to share this post with your friends and family.
Thank you…
Hi! Beautiful written… I have vicarious travelled already..can’t wait to visit in person…
I just had one query..the homestay the guide offer, be it in baghmara or siju… Is it like a exclusive homestay or just a room in their own house?
Thank you…
Both home stays, in Siju and in Baghmara are good. Their homes are in same premises but in separate wing or floor. So usually you get your privacy and they get their. They have few rooms for home stays with one dining area.
Thank you writing back to me! Can you please share the contact number of Siju homestay? I was unable to get information from the link above.
Siju Homestay number: 6009612798
Wonderful pics
Thank you..
Beautiful 👌👌
Thank you…
👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you….
Fantastic place wari chora,bhagmara, really wishing to visit such places
Thank you uncle..
Perceived Presented Perfectly !
Thank you…
Simply Wow !
Thank you…
Sunday morning !
Am sure doc you are taking efforts to keep us motivated to step out of bed and move along !
Dugged out perfectly
this is sure my next to go list
Thank you for appreciating…
U have nailed it !
awesome
Thank you so much…
Am based at padra and original from Guwahati !
Dr Nirav happens to be a family friend and he informed me about this site !
Can u just highlight how to approach this for a weekend from guwahati !
Thank you so much… You have to take private taxi/vehicle from Guwahati. Public transport might be available till Siju only. I have shared few contact numbers in the end. They all can help you with guide and stays as well as 4X4 vehicle.
Wari Chora is the land of the Seven Giant Serpents.
Wari is a Garo word that translates to deep water while Chora refers to long.
i could search only these things from google
Your post seems to describe it as all in one place ! Just wondering how u landed up hear because even google maps says terrain is off and stays are not that too convenient
Exploration to its Max !
by the way i am hardik Kuldeep brother and he keeps on forwarding your blog . Am based in nairobi and planning to visit meghalaya hence thought of appreciating your efforts
Thank you so much for kind words… Yes places like this are not on Google Maps and not easily accessible but that’s the beauty of it. It is like whole sabr ka phal mitha thing…And homestays do provide basic necessities. But now we are well adapted to that.
Thanks once again for appreciating and do visit.. it is a real gem..
It seems to be Canyon !
Wow ! Explored perfectly
Have been to north east but this is gem
Yes.. this is canyon and so beautiful… Thank you…
Super se bhi upar
Thank you…