A heritage walk in Bhuvneshwar – ‘The City of Temples’

By Kajal Shah Odisha

Hello all,

Bhuvneshwar is known as “the temple city of India,” and Old Town Bhubaneswar is known as Ekamra Kshetra, the center of Kalingan temple architecture.  This land had once hosted more than 7000 temples. The famous Ekamra Walks is a heritage walk giving the experience of the Old Town area, including the rustic lanes, temples, art, and culture.

We started our walk from the Parsurameswara temple and ended at Lingaraj temple.

Parsurameswara Temple:

 It is one of the earliest temples with serene and calm surroundings. Parasurameswara was previously known as Parasavara, named after Lakulisa’s teacher. It is believed that the temple was built in the 7th Century AD by Madhavaraja II of the Shailodbhava Dynasty, who was a devotee of. Of only Shiva and Shakti, that might be the reason for the dominant carvings of Shiva and Shakti in this temple.

The temple is based on the triratna theme with vimana (sanctum) and Jagmohana (prayer hall). The main entrance of the prayer hall features exquisite carvings of elephants. The hall has four windows.  There are idols of Lakulisa, Ganesha, Nataraja, Surya, Kartikeya, Devi Chamunda, Ganga, Yamuna, and Saptamatrika deities – seven Hindu Goddesses representing Shakti named Brahmi, Maheshwari, Kaumari, Vaishnavi, Varahi, Indrani, and Chamundeshwari. There are three main incidents of Shiva’s life carved so intricately on three sides. On one side, there is Ravana raising Mount Kailash. On one side, there is Annapoorna offering a gift to Shiva, and lastly, Shiva’s marriage. Just beside the temple, there is a small garden and walkway, and from here you can go to Mukeshwara temple.

Timings:

All the days of the week from 5 am to 6 pm.

Mukteswara and Siddheswara Temples:

This temple was built by King Yayati I of the Somavamshi Dynasty. The Mukteswara temple is also known as “Gem of Kalingan architecture” and rightly so. With the height of approximately 35 feet, windows with Jaali design, and intricate carvings from Panchtantra, Paarvati’s penance, and Gansha’s dance, the name given to this temple is so appropriate. However, the main feature you will notice here is the arched gate in the style of Torana. The arch has Buddhist influence with beautifully carved peacocks, monkeys, and smiling women.

It is built in the Pitha Deula style, which is a square-shaped building with a pyramidal roof. This is a distinct temple style from Kalinga architecture. Just beside the Mukeshwara temple, there is a small Marichi kund and Siddheshwara temple, which is believed to have been built later. As per legend, a dip in Marichi Kund can cure infertility in females.

Timings:

All the days of the week from 6:30 am to 7:30 pm.

Kedar Gauri temple:

Kedargauri Temple is believed to be one of the eight Astasambhu shrines in the city. The premises have two main temples: Kedar Temple, which houses a Shivalinga, and the Gauri Temple, which houses the idol of Goddess Parvati with three small temples of Lord Hanuman, Lord Ganesha, and Goddess Durga. The temple was built by King Lalatendu Keshari in memory of two lovers, named Kedar and Gauri. While some believe that Lord Shiva, with Goddess Parvati, visited this place from Varanasi to seek peace.

Timings:

All days in a week, 24 hours

Swarnajaleswar Temple:

This temple is believed to be the oldest one in Bhubaneshwar, built around the 7th century.  This temple is built in a Kalinga Triratha style with only a vimana and no jagamohana. The full picture is that the temple is not possible as there are many buildings in the surroundings, but those buildings don’t lessen the beauty of this small yet serene temple.

 

There are carvings of scenes from Ramayan and Mahabharat as well as a common theme of wild elephants being captured, which seems to regularly appear in temples from the 7th to 9th century A.D. The most striking piece is a fragmentary naga (serpent) figure holding a foliated purna ghanta (full jar)

Kotiteertheswara temple:

This temple was built by the Somavansi dynasty in a Kalinga pacharatha style in the 11th century A.D. There is a small kund adjacent to the temple fed by a natural spring. It is believed that taking a bath in this spring and then worshiping the linga in the sanctum is equal to 1 crore pilgrimages.

Timings: All days of the week, open 24 hours

Champakeswara temple :

Built during the Ganga dynasty rule in the 13th century A.D, it is now located in the middle of the residential area. The central main temple, accompanied by four smaller subsidiary shrines with an ancient well, sits just in front of the temple.   Local people believe that the enshrined Shiva lingam is a patalphuta (evolved from the underworld) and the precinct is the abode of Champanagas (cobra) after whom the deity is named Champakeswar. However, they also believe that these snakes will never harm anybody.

Sampoornajaleswar temple:

This temple has only a vimana with an attached porch with intricate carvings on the exterior, just like the Mukteswara temple.  This temple no longer appears to be living, as the sanctum is now empty.

Subaranajaleswar temple:

It only has a vimana with an attached porch, and is mostly devoid of decoration except the door jamb, which has a depiction of Shiva and Parvati on both sides. Another feature of this temple is the Angasikharas.  The setting of the temple must have been so beautiful originally, but now, with the adjacent canal and garbage within, it has a foul smell in the surroundings, which is ruining the serenity and peace of the temple.

 

Bindu Sagar Lake:

It is a sacred water body that holds immense religious significance for Hindus. According to Hindu mythology, it is believed to be a drop from Lord Vishnu’s teardrop.

Anant Vasudeva temple:

This is one of the oldest temples of Odisha dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The temple was built by Queen Chandrika Devi of the Eastern Ganga dynasty in the 13th century, where an idol of Lord Vishnu was worshiped at the same place prior to the temple construction. The Ananta Vasudeva Temple was built in the typical Kalinga style with pillars engraved with various mythological stories. The temple is divided into four parts: the sanctum, Jagamohana, Bhogamandapa, and Natamandira. The main sanctum consists of the idols of Lord Balarama, Lord Krishna, and Goddess Shubhadra made of black granite stones.

One of the main highlights of the temple is its kitchen, where Mahaprasad (Abhada) is prepared traditionally and authentically in a Saatvik manner in earthen pots using firewood. This sacred food is first served to the deities and then to the devotees at Bhoga Bazaar, adjoining the shrine.

Timings:  open all days of the week. 6:00 am to 8:00 am

Lingaraj temple:

The largest and most sacred Temple devoted to Lord Harihara, the temple was built in the 11th century, and houses a Swayambhu (self-manifested) Shivalinga, which is 8 feet in diameter and 8 inches tall. The temple was built by Jajati Keshari, who was a Somvanshi king in the 11th century. The temple finds its name in the Brahma Purana.  The Temple is a great example of the Kalinga style with a huge laterite compound wall measuring 22,720 sq. m and 180 feet tall, mesmerizing Lingaraj Temple, made of sandstone and laterite, dominating the old city, along with 150 small shrines in its courtyard as well.

The temple has four main parts, just like the Anant Vasudev temple: Vimana (main sanctum), Jagamohana (assembly hall), Nata Mandira (festival hall), and Bhoga Mandapa (hall of offering). Non-Hindus can not enter the temple, so A platform has been built outside the complex for non-Hindus to get a glimpse of this magnificent ancient structure.

Timings: 6:30 am – 7:30 pm

Points to consider:

  • Dress appropriately and modestly.
  • Keep the surroundings of the temple and the areas clean.
  • Don’t make noise and be respectful to the local customs  
  • Photography is not allowed in Lingrajan temple.

So, do visit this city of temples and revive the cultural heritage in your heart and soul by visiting these beautiful temples.

 

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