Dzukou Valley: A place that doesn’t need any caption
Why Nagaland? Have you finished visiting other states? Go somewhere abroad. Those were the usual statements and questions when we told our friends and family that we are going to visit this hidden gemstone in Northeast India.
The reason was- this green valley. One look at the picture of this valley and I was enchanted by her beauty. I may sound a little overdramatic, but I had dreams…Dreams of that captivating valley…Calling us, whispering her wonderful tales, and peeping into our fantasies with her enthralling scenery.
Yes yes! It has mesmerizing views and soothing vibes that make you forget the locations of Yash Chopra’s movies and so much drama with changing weather that Ekta Kapoor and Karan Johar can’t compete.
The valley is Majestic. It is Mysterious. It is Magical. It is Magnetic. This mammoth valley is so magnificent and marvelous that with its mightiness, it metamorphoses any moody mortal into melodramatic. Just be mindful and move away from mundane materialistic matters masking the maverick person inside you.
They say when you visit the valley, you keep part of your soul in it. We have. We have left part of our souls there. The place is pure bliss, and it is filled with so much positivity that my eyes are pouring while writing these miles and miles away from the valley, but its memories are carved in my mind like million years old fossils.
Every mysterious turn, every bamboo leaves, every dead tree bark, every small stream, every pebble in that river, and every rolling hill…I was asking all these a quote from Joni Mitchell- “Will you take me as I am?” And the generous valley accepts us as it is. Going to the valley is not easy, and it tests your patience, your determination, and your motivation. But when you pass in all, you enter into its divine world. You are in her hills, and they are in you.
Sitting at the guest house bench and looking far into the valley, you will understand the feeling of ‘to be’..’ to let it be..’ as if nature has selected this path for us. We are everything to her, and she is the only thing we have. In that place without any network, without electricity, with just basic necessities, we understand how little we need. How little we are. How little our minds have become and how little try we are doing to rectify it.
I was not writing about this valley because I wanted to keep it to myself… I know it doesn’t work that way, but I just wanted to keep those memories fresh… So I started writing daily a little bit about it and that way, I can keep remembering those lush green hillocks, dancing bamboo, that continuous drizzle, a terrifying night with thunderstorms, and that bouncing rivulet. And what can I say about people, our guide Ms. Alesi, our potter Kekhrie, staff at the guest house kitchen and The Boss, owner of guest house and most of all Mr. Ratan, the person who has organized everything meticulously. Their warm smile and their kind hearts. Their deep urge to help us at every step. Their banter with kids and their stupefying stories. We love it, all of it, and we miss it.
Now about the trek:
- Terrain Type: Grasslands with dwarf bamboos all around you
- Trek level: Easy-Moderate
- Altitude: 8,000 ft
- Distance: appx 25 km ( both ways )
MEANING OF DZUKOU:
In the Viswema dialect word, “Dzukou” means “Lifeless and dull”. Ancestors of Viswema people gave this name. According to them, the valley was beautiful and enchanting, but they couldn’t grow any crops here, so it was soulless, hence Dzukou.
But based on some other beliefs, Dzukou means “Cold Water” because of the ice-cold streams in the valley. Two rivers run from the valley Dzukou and Japfu, like silver ribbons crossing each other at places and enhancing the beauty of the resplendent valley.
HOW TO REACH DZUKOU:
There are two routes to reach the valley from Nagaland. Viswema route and Jakhama route. The Viswema route is a little long and less steep, while the Jakhama route is shorter but steeper. As we were going with kids, we chose the Viswema route. And there is the problem of leeches along the Jakhama route as per our guide and tour operator, so we selected the first one. Viswema is approximately 24-25 km from Kohima, around an hour’s drive, while Jakhama is 21 km, which is a 45-50 minutes drive.
Once you reach Viswema village, there is one small right turn, that is the Dzukou valley entry point on Google map. There is one garage just at the starting point of this road, you can ask for a taxi over there. Me. Ratan managed everything for us, so it was not a problem. But if you are planning to start your trek from here then good luck because it is around 8 km motorable road in very bad condition with a gradual uphill climb so it will take at least 2-3 hours, where you will reach the starting point of real Dzukou valley trek. And if you are going by car you will reach the starting point after 40 minutes of a bumpy ride.
Once you reach this point, there is a steep climb through dense forest. Though there are stairs made with stones, be careful as they might be slippery depending on the weather condition. The trail is very well marked with few dustbins along the way. Dzukou valley is a plastic-free zone, so please maintain that along the trail and while in the valley. One thing I forgot to mention is while you are on the road from Viswema, there is a check post where you have to do the entry and show your ID cards. Now that forest trail is appx 2 km as per our guide but at some places, its mentioned of appx 4 km. the appx time to climb this steep section is 60-90 minutes depending on your fitness. Only at one place, there is a small section with rocks, you might need help crossing this section as it is a little difficult.
And once this steep climb ends, you will be welcomed at the first rest point with an amazing view of the village below. There are two trails from here; the one on the left goes to Mount Tempu in Manipur, and the one on the right…. Well, no need to tell you that. And yes, from this point, you won’t get any network. So save your phone batteries as you will need them to click amazing pictures down in the valley.
And when you take the right trail, you will get the first glimpse of the mighty Dzukou. We stand there quietly while going down just to have a last look at the valley and treasure her in our minds forever. While going up, we were not able to cherish this view as the entire valley was covered with a blanket of fluffy clouds.
From here, the trail is pretty easy. It is a serpentine trail without any steepness and a quiet narrow path. So if you have a phobia of the narrow trails, then please be prepared because it is around 2 hours walk on the same trail. One mistake and you’ll be in the valley covered with dwarf bamboos. Here also one small section with rocks where you have to be cautious. You will get a few streams along the way. And a few canopies of the bamboos where your trekking pole will help you immensely.
BEST TIME TO VISIT DZUKOU:
You can visit Dzukou all around the year. We have been there only once, but we heard from our fellow travelers that the valley is different in all seasons and equally beautiful. You can’t compare her in each season. They say that the best time to visit Dzukou is October to May. As rain can be very harsh in this part of India and the valley, it can be torrential so avoid the monsoon season. Though we went in May, we witnessed the thunderstorm and experienced it the entire night. But if you want to see the Dzukou Lilies, which are native to this valley only in the whole world, you have to come in July only.
Again in the winter, the valley is covered with white frost, and bamboos are draped with a white blanket of frost and snow. We are yet to witness it. Mind the chill also in winter as day temperature is 10 degrees C and night temperature can be below freezing point.
Even in spring, summer, and monsoon, nights in the valley are always chilly.
The sunset in the valley is a scene to cherish once in a lifetime so better to plan your trip when the sky is clear, and you will see the changing shades of the valley with changing the size of the sun. (We missed this, and we are going back again just to witness the sunset)
IN THE VALLEY:
Some people just go up to the guesthouse and come back but please don’t do this mistake. Because the main part of the valley is a 2 km trek from the guesthouse.
When you start taking the trail from the guesthouse, after a while, you will notice a small left upward trail that will take you to the helipad, and if you go straight ahead, you will go deeper into the valley. And here you will be welcomed by skeletons of dead trees on either side standing proudly amongst the bamboos as if declaring tales of their bravery during the forest fires. The ecosystem of Dzukou is the fight between the trees and bamboos and mother nature here always blessed bamboos by destroying the trees with occasional forest fires and this allows rapid growth of the wild dwarf bamboos.
Follow this trail and after some ascent and descent, on your left side, you will come across a few cliffs overlooking the river, bouncing merrily and tumbling rapidly. Take a few pictures of these cliffs, they are instaworthy.
When you go further ahead in the valley, you have to cross the rivulet. There was a bridge here, but unfortunately, the bridge was broken when we visited, and people were going with the help of rope. But we didn’t want to take any chances, so we did not go ahead. But if you go further, then you can go up to the hill with a cross.
at the broken bridge
While coming back, our guide took us via the trail just beside the river. You have to cross the rivulet stream at one place, and you will be passing through some caves with rocky boulders (it is the same place with cliffs above where you took amazing pictures). This path is tricky, and please be a little cautious. We had an amazing guide (Ms. Alesi) with us who took utmost care of the kids and us so we were able to cross it with less difficulty. As it was drizzling continuously, it was more challenging for us.
GUEST HOUSE:
And after around 2 hours of walking along the narrow zig-zag path, you will be at the gate of the guest house.
The one and the only place to stay in Dzukou. The one and the only place where you can get water and food. The guest house has two dormitories and a few private rooms. The charge for the private room is 1500 per night, which has an attached basic toilet also. The rooms are very basic, but what more can we expect at this remote location? As Sheel says, if you want to come to places like this, you cant think of having a luxury. Because once they start to provide splendor stay here, the place won’t be the same. So let the valley be desolate and enigmatic as she is now…The guest house kitchen also provides basic food and a few snacks. They provide sleeping bags and blankets also with a charge of 50 rs/piece.
WHAT TO PACK
- The weather in the valley is highly unpredictable so always carry a poncho or raincoat with you.
- Temperature at night drops significantly so please keep your warm layers. Mr. Ratan, if you are reading this, you have persistently told me that the temperature could go up to 5 degrees at night, but I was overconfident, so I took layers for the kids but neglected mine. Thanks to Ms. Ales, we got a few blankets. Otherwise, I don’t know how l could have managed.
- The food at the guest house is very basic with limited options, so if you want specific food, carry it with you. We Gujaratis don’t travel without Thepla, so they were our best companions for a rainy night.
- We took anti–Leeches socks with us, but if you are traveling from the Viswema side, leeches are not a big problem.
- Please wear shoes with proper grip as the initial forest trail can be slippery and muddy in monsoon.
- Take 3 pairs of socks with you as they provide comfort at night and might get wet during your time in the valley while crossing the stream.
POINT TO KEEP IN MIND
- People tend to go onto the valley on the same day when they come. But if you are planning to stay the night, visit the valley in the morning. It is more enchanting in the morning sun. And please stay for the night. The experience in thrilling.
- I am mentioning this again but don’t skip visiting the valley because the heart of the Dzukou is deep in the valley, not at the guest house.
- This can be done as a DIY trail, but it is always better to keep a guide with you if you are traveling with kids. They know the terrain better. They know every turn and every rock, every steam, and every slippery path. Even they can have their ways in the kitchen because they know each and every staff there and provide you quick food as and when required. When we went, it was raining like cats and dogs with a cold wind, but our kids were comfortable beside the fireplace in the cozy kitchen most of the time. Thanks to Ms. Alesi and Kekhrie.
So Dzukou, Nagaland, we will be forever in debt to you. You have shown us the beautiful path, path of adventure, path of self-satisfaction. The journey can be difficult, but the end results always shine.
PS: When we reached the valley, it was entirely covered with clouds. We couldn’t see anything just ahead of us; forget about the valley. We were so disheartened. and it was raining continuously with not a single view of the valley from anywhere. We called it a night at 5:30 in the evening, and anyways, sunset on the Northeast side is always early. The night was horrifying with continuous downpour and thunder. We were sure that we would be going back as it is. In the morning, also up till 9’o clock (our time to head back), there was constant drizzle with clouds all around, but thanks to Alesi and the staff at the guest house kitchen, they encouraged us to go into the valley. And as we started going down, the atmosphere changed suddenly, as if clouds were waiting for us to move ahead… so now it was my turn of being dramatic “Kehte hain agar kisi cheez ko dil se chaho … to poori kainath use tumse milane ki koshish mein lag jaati hai” – I know, I know….
Thank you all..
This was my longest post.
See you next week with another adventure.
Attaching the link of our tour organizer: https://experiencedestination.com/
Thanks, Ratan.
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A passion can be anything. And yes, your passion can be something totally different from profession too.
That is how it should be in an ideal sense.
EXTRAORDINARY TALENT !
LOVED THE POST AND AWESOME PLACE WELL WRITTEN AND SCRIPTED TO PRODFESION !
Thank you so much for kind words sir. We appreciated it greatly.
Simply loved your post!
Thank you so much…