Gir Forest : Pride of Garvi Gujarat
Hello all,
I have read somewhere, “Living in harmony with nature dancing under the rhythm of cool breeze, that’s the true essence of life.” Is it so?
What is harmony? Some say it is balance. The balance between us and nature. The balance between animals. Between humans. We all say that we have to stay with other species by accepting each other and being considerate of each other with mutual understanding and consciousness. We think that being the most superior species on this planet (I repeat, we think!), only we are privileged to do this. Are we right? Are we that kind and considerate? We have created an aura of superiority around ourselves that we are blind to the balancing acts taking place in this world at mammoth levels, leave alone the minute ones.
Whenever you feel at a loss of this understanding or want to be conscious of this concept, go to this place, and you will be at a loss of words to commiserate this…
Gir…
Land of alluring Asiatic lions…
Land of mighty Maldharis
Land of simple Siddhis
Land of thousands of other animals and plant species…
Khamma Gir… Gandi Gir…
What should I write about this land? I am at a loss for words. If you are Gujarati, read Dhruv Bhatt’s Akoopar; if you are non-Gujarati, then read its English translation. I have read both; in fact, Gujarati books I have read twice. I am sure you will be mesmerized by the mightiness of this land and fall in love with its simplicity.
Though tourism might have affected the last part still, once you enter the forest, you are in the lap of Gir. What is Gir? Is it the land of Kathiyawad? Is it home to the Lions? Is it home to Maldharis? Gir is simply not a place. Whatever I have mentioned above from Gir. All together. In perfect harmony. With respect towards each other and with admiring and accepting each others’ boundaries and capacities.
About the national park:
- The Gir safari starts at Sasan village, which is the official entrance of the Gir forest. The forest is of a total area of 1412 square kilometers, and in which 258 square kilometers, the core of the national park.
- Terrain Type: Grasslands with deciduous trees
History of Gir
Kings and British officers were doing aimless, haphazard hunting during the colonial era, leading to a severe decrease in the population of Asiatic lions. Only a few lions were left in the Gir forest. And then Junagadh’s king, with the help of, other British officer took the initiative to protect the endangered species. In 1969, the Indian government came forward and declared the area a sanctuary. Then in 1980, it was recognized as a national park.
In 2005, the Asiatic lion population was 359. In 2015, there were 523 lions in the Gir forest, and as per the latest count in 2020, 674 lions are there.
BEST TIME TO VISIT GIR
Summer: April and May – extremely hot and dry season, but this is the best time to see the lions as they come to drink water in many artificial as well as natural water bodies.
Winter and spring: November to March – It is best to visit Gir National Park because the weather is cool and pleasant. It can get really chilly during the night in winter, but days are enjoyable.
Monsoon – the park is closed from mid-June to mid-October every year.
IN THE GIR:
If you want to visit the forest, you must book a safari at least a month before. And you can book it online only. The official website is https://girlion.gujarat.gov.in/. You will get a permit online, and for that, you have to submit your ID. Charges of guide and gypsy will be taken at the counter at Sinh Sadan. You have to reach early, at least an hour before the safari time to get tickets from the counter even though you have taken a permit. Carry your original IDs with you. Private vehicles are not allowed in the forest. There are 13 routes, and you can get any route by the forest department. And that’s why you have to reach early to get the best way.
Timings of Jeep Safari –
Duration of the safari – 3 hours.
Days: Monday – Sunday
In Winter
Morning: 6:30 am to 9:30 am & 9:30 am to 12:30 pm
Evening: 3 pm to 6 pm
In Summer
Morning: 6 am to 9 am & 9 am to 12 am
Evening: 4 pm to 7 pm
Fifty jeeps are allowed per safari, so 150 safaris per day. And on holidays, they run 180 safaris per day. Early morning safaris are best because lions are most active then, and guides say that chances of a lion sighting are appx 80-90%. The second best time is the evening safari. There are 11 artificial water points in Devalia park and 218 artificial water points in Gir Safari park and most of them run by windmills.
Guides of the gypsy have a good network among each other and with forest officers, so they usually keep track of the lions’ location. So if one spot has a lion sighting, they will communicate and try their best to locate lions. But this is possible only if lions are on your route, and they won’t change your path even if it’s just a few meters away, as both guides and jeep drivers have to face the consequences.
We couldn’t see any lions on our first evening safari. Our guide was constantly motivating us and telling us about the forest, the species, the mood of the jungle, and the moods of the lion, and he was preparing us not to be disappointed if we couldn’t see a lion. We went back to the hotel, feeling disheartened.
Then came the following day. We reached Sinh Sadan as per the timings and started again. We were satisfied with the morning view of Gir. The morning sun rose slowly, creating hues of orange and red. Soft sunlight sieving through the barks of the trees, gentle breeze, and chirping of birds was captivating. The landscape is of various shades of brown with occasional greens and yellows of Garmalo with a few stark white skeletons of Gond/Gum trees.
Occasional views of peacocks, spotted deers, and sambhar deers, and incredible sightings of birds made the landscape more fascinating. I had made up my mind that lions and lionesses are kings and queens of Gir. We have to accept their moods. They don’t just magically appear anywhere for us to be seen. We have to get that, and we have to respect that. And if you can’t do that, Gir Safari is not for you. Your guide will tell you the same. We have heard stories about people staying there for a week, going on safari 10-11 times, and still no luck to see a lion or lioness. Why? Simple because they are the kings and queens here. The Gir is Gir because of them and thousands of other species.
And then we saw them. A group of lions sitting far away with the body of their prey. Our guide told the driver to park the gypsy aside. Few of the jeeps went ahead, but our guide told us to be quiet and wait for some time. And then, slowly, one lioness got up. She walked towards the waterbody just a few meters away from our jeep, and she started drinking water. We were fascinated by her. Slowly she went ahead, walking in between jeeps as if evaluating every one of us. And then came three cute little cubs! They also took their time to drink water and assess their surroundings, following their mother’s footsteps…The second lioness was still sitting near the prey. These were the best 10 minutes of our entire journey. We will remember it for a very very long time..
The other species of Gir include Indian leopards, striped hyenas, wild boars, crocodiles, cobras, spotted deers, sambar, jackal, fox, vultures, Mongoose, porcupines, jungle cats, eagles, owls, many more birds species. When we went there, forest officials were busy doing leopard counting. There are appx 1100 leopard, 63,000 plus deers, 2000 nilgais with 22 different species of grass, 600 plus plant species, 1000 species of insects, 37 species of reptiles and 39 species of mammals in this forest. Isn’t this amazing!
Another thing that fascinated me was the harmony between lions and Maldahris. How peacefully they are staying in their Nes without any care about the world. There were 354 Neses in the Gir, and now only 54. The government is trying to locate them in villages and cities with better civilization, but do they want it? Only time will tell. But at present, many still believe that Gir is because of Lion and because of them. Lions can’t exist without them, and they can’t live without lions. And it is as simple as it can get regarding harmony in nature. Both of them respect each other. If the lion attacks their cattle, they will say, “Khamma mara” It will be the fate of the cattle. Taru raj and tu raja. This is awe-inspiring for us city people, where many of us can’t tolerate other humans. We can’t be considerate to them and understand each other, and here, two entirely different species which can be harmful to each other are staying in such harmony!
Leopards are different altogether. It is ferocious species, not like a calm and proud lion. Asiatic lion is not just famous for its fierceness but also for its royalness and resilience. Leopards are not at all predictable. They can attack anyone and from anywhere, and that’s why they are so many man-eater leopards in Devalia Park. In contrast, Lion will respect you. If you try to tease him, and if it feels like you are going to do any harm to him / her, they will give you warnings at least three times as per the guides. And if then also you don’t understand, you don’t deserve to stay here.
But this harmony stays up to Gir. With the increasing population of lions, and we are also becoming greedy daily and expanding our territories, questions are being raised. In 2016 one lion and two lionesses turned man-eater near Amreli. Recently there was news about a lioness attacking a kid. Lions have expanded their territories up to Chotila and Velavadar, or should I say, they have moved to their domain again. Are we ready to encounter them with all understanding, and will they respect us the same as Maldharis? 
The answer will be definitely NO! Staying in Vadodara, we often read stories about leopards attacking villagers. Stories might get regular about lions also because, let’s not forget, they are the biggest and most ferocious big cats, and we have encroached upon all of their territories.
Writing about this harmony might seem fascinating when facing my computer sitting in the comfort of my room. What about it when they have to stay in scorching 45-degree heat without facilities?
DEVALIA SAFARI
You can also visit Devalia Safari Park, which is more like a zoo because it is fenced off the sanctuary. Here they keep rescued animals. They have also kept man-eater leopards and leopardess here in enclosures. You can do a bus safari or a gypsy safari here, and you can get it on the same day also.
WHAT TO PACK
- In winter, it is pretty cold in the region, so take appropriate winter clothing, and in summer, please take caps, sunscreen, and sunglasses.
- Carry your original IDs.
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POINT TO KEEP IN MIND
· Plastic is not allowed in the park. You can carry water in steel bottles. Steel water bottles are also available at the counter at Sinh Sadan.
· Getting down from the jeep is not allowed. They will take one stop at the restrooms, which are properly maintained and clean.
Siddi tribe:
When we went for our evening safari, we have encountered many ebony-skinned people with curly hair as guides, drivers or salespersons in souvenir shops. But once they start speaking, you might want to stare at them with your jaw open! Such is their accent and attitude, and they are mixed with Gir just like sugar and water. 
We also watched their traditional African Dhamal dance, including half-circles, solo performers, handstands, fire eating, and somersaults with Ngoma drumming. Their painted face with thunder thumping of drums has made the atmosphere so much alive! And lastly, Boom! One of them just broke a coconut on his head! We all were awestruck!
HOW TO REACH GIR:
Nearest airport –
Rajkot 160 kilometers (3.5 hours’ drive)
Nearest railway Stations:
Junagadh (65 kilometers away from Gir)
Veraval (45 km from Gir).
After arriving in Junagadh/Veraval, a taxi or bus is available to Sasan Gir
It is also well connected by road.
So this was our short but successful and fascinating trip to Gir. We have not spotted the king in safari but the queens and cubs were beyond amazing. I found my Ramajana and Sarayu… (Don’t miss Akoopar)
Do share your experiences with us.
Thank you.
I am from Talala . No one feels more nostalgic than me when u talk about Gir !
Dr Kajal di hit the bulls eye . Feeling like crying loud when I read it and that made me read this again and again ! The best part is description and harmony ! Seriously speaking Talala is empty without lions and lions cannot survive without us
Keep up the good work and reading your blog is so mesmerising
Thank you so much…so true.. in fact whole Saurashtra is empty without lion.
We also went and enjoyed ! Really it’s nice place and feel good after your reading
Thank you…