Lahaul Valley : When a hiking trip turns into a road trip to this angelic land…
Hello all,
“The Universe is always speaking to us…Sending us little messages, causing coincidences and serendipities, reminding us to stop, to look around, to believe in something else, something more.” ― Nancy Thayer
Do you believe in signs?
We do.
I firmly believe that the Universe helps us in all ways it can… Sending periodic signals of what to do and what not to do. It is up to us to recognize them at the right time. It is up to us whether to follow it or ignore it. It is up to us if we use them wisely or wastefully. And this is the magic of life and luck. Some say it all depends on luck. I believe it all depends on our perception of those signs. The Universe might have sent us some subtle hints, but we might not have noticed it, or if we have noticed, we might have just ignored it.
Anyways. I am so so so grateful to the Universe for sending us some signs on our recent trip to Manali. After careful and extensive planning for more than four months, we landed at Kullu airport for our Bhrigu Lake trek. And we were welcomed by drizzling and soothing fragrance of mother earth. The pilot had taken a risk by landing on a wet runway. Usually, under those circumstances, they take a flight back to Chandigarh. Still, that day, he took his chance, and we could see one of the most beautiful runways in India, just beside the river Beas, nestled among the mountains on all sides… And the scenario of mishaps started like this.
After reaching our hotel in Manali, we started with regular touristy activities in Manali for acclimatization. And when we reached the office of Hippie In Hills, Mr. Gaurav told us better to go for the Rani Sui Lake trek. As Bhrigu Lake is on the east side, there would be heavy winds from Rohtang Pass and higher mountains during the night, and as the weather forecast already suggested heavy rainfall and winds, we better opt for the other trek. But he was very much confident about Rani Sui one. And his confidence became ours, and we went to the hotel, mentally climbing the mountains and reaching the peak.
But in the evening, it started raining quite heavily. I had my doubts. Should we expose kids to the harsh conditions of mountains with camping and tenting, or should we cancel it? Sheel thought that let them learn. But somehow, I don’t want them to hate trekking, and mountains and extreme weather can do that to kids. I slept with a double mind and prayed to God that if it was not advisable for us to go, please, please send some signal. At least one sign, so I understand He doesn’t want us to go.
Suddenly Shaurya had a bad bout of vomit during the night in his sleep only. It may be due to overeating or a lack of sleep the previous night. I was confident that this was the sign. But it wasn’t easy to convince Sheel. Came morning, we all were ready for the trek. Shaurya was optimistic that he was feeling perfectly normal. So with a sceptical mind, I also went ahead with the ride, packed our bags, took our poles and called our guide.
But…Once we finished breakfast, Shaurya started filling nauseating again! He was not at all comfortable. I made my decision. No! We are not going for a trek. Sheel called Mr Gaurav and shared our concerns, and he understood our problem immediately. He, with his teammate and our guide Mr Shubham, curated a perfect itinerary for us for the next three days in the Magical wonderland of Lahaul!
So why am I telling you all this? Because Universe had not sent us those signs and had not changed our minds about not trekking, we might not have considered visiting this magical valley any time soon. Spiti is on our bucket list. But not this! So sometimes the Universe has better plans for you. Just sit back, relax, understand these signs and do your work calmly and patiently. The coincidences will take place. The serendipities will arise.
Where should I start about this valley? Let me tell you, once you cross the North portal of the Atal Tunnel, you will feel that you are in a different world altogether. Gone are the green mountains topped with lush green pine trees. Here the hills are more barren, with glaciers and occasional trees.
There is calm and peace in this barrenness and this nothingness. Tranquillity flows under those glaciers come out as bounding and roaring waterfalls. The river Chenab flowing merrily and accompanying you along the main highway as you enter from the tunnel is a sight to behold!
About Lahaul Valley
Lahaul-Spiti is the largest district of Himachal Pradesh. Lahaul is situated 33 km from Manali on the Manali Leh highway. The headquarter of Lahaul is Keylong, situated about 72 Km from Manali. Lahaul Valley starts from the North portal of the Atal Tunnel. Before the Atal tunnel, it was challenging to reach Lahaul because one needed to travel via Rohtang pass and be ready to stick in traffic for hours and hours. Now with a great tunnel, it is just a matter of minutes. The tunnel has proved to be a blessing for both locals and tourists.
People even make a day trip to the Tunnel and Sissu for Manali. It is like an extension of the Manali trip with must-visit places like Solang Valley and Rohtang Pass. But, don’t just stop at Sissu. Lahual is much, much more than that. So if you are planning a road trip to Lahual, please read this blog before.
Lahaul is a beautiful amalgamation of glaciers, waterfalls, rivers, deep valleys, and gigantic peaks along the prominent Buddhist and Hindu cultures. It is separated from Spiti by Kunzum Pass, with very different landscapes in both of them.
It was a part of Ladakh, which included Ladakh, Zanskar, Lahaul, and Spiti. It got separated in the second part of the 17th Century and then was under the rule of Kullu.
Parts of Lahaul Valley
Now with easy connectivity, many tourist activities are developing in Lahaul. Sissu is becoming the second Solang Valley in terms of activities. But it does not end at Sissu.
Lahaul Valley is sub-divided into the following five valleys –
-
Tinan Valley / Ranglo Valley
Starts from Khoksar to Tandi. It is the first valley of Lahaul when you enter from Manali.
Villages – Sissu, Teling, Jagdjang, and Shurthang
Check in details about this valley here.
-
Gahar Valley
From Keylong to Darcha.
The Lady of Keylong Peak will accompany you when you are visiting this valley. Keylong is the district headquarter of Lahual and Spiti.
Unfortunately we didn’t visit any place here. It was just a transit through this valley for us.
-
Tod / Bhaga Valley
From Darcha to Sarchu, the end of Himachal Pradesh’s border.
This valley is truly a wonderland. The landscape changes significantly once you enter this valley. Snow-laden mountains will be your companions most of the months in a year, and they are so near you that you want to climb every one of them. The peaks will call your name. It is also the busiest part of the region because of the Manali – Leh highway. You might have to wait hours and hours before crossing this entire valley.
If you want to explore more in this valley please check here.
-
Pattan Valley
From Tandi to Udaipur.
One of the least explored regions of Lahaul
Again the sudden change of the landscape is what you will see. The greenery will become a prominent part rather than snow or dry mountains. Lush green step farms to occasional mountain glaciers will steal your heart. It is like a sweet little sister of mightly Tod Valley.
Here is the list of things you can do in this valley.
-
Miyar Valley
It is a part of the Pattan Valley and my favourite part of the trip. They say it offers both views of Himachal and Zanskar. I wouldn’t know, as I am yet to see Zanskar. The roads are like going off-road, but that drive is thrilling.
There are a few small villages – Tingrit, Urgos, Shukto, and Khanjar with small few settlements along the way.
Read about this valley in detail here.
Best Season to Visit
Every season is different in the mountains. So you have to decide what you want to see.
Summers: Pleasant, but it can get a little chilly at night. Weather Gods were not in a mood when we visited, so it was up to -4 degrees during the night, even in the month of the first week of June. Summers start in Lahaul in June and last till early September.
Autumn and spring: again, pleasant during the day and cold at night.
Autumn starts In September and lasts till October.
Spring commences in April.
Winters: Extremely cold with heavy snowfall. The Atal tunnel might close for some days, so check before going. But the landscape will be mesmerizing. Winter lasts from November until late March.
How to Reach Lahaul Valley
33 KMs from Manali on the Manali – Leh Highway
The nearest airport is the Kullu (Bhuntar) Airport, 51 KMs from Manali.
The nearest railway station is Joginder Nagar.
Easier option -– Chandigarh is better because of more connectivity via plane and train
The best part about Lahaul is that most places can be reached by road. However, a 4X4 vehicle is better if you visit in winter, the snowy season, and Miyar Valley.
Stay options in Lahaul:
There are a few hotels and guesthouses. We have noticed many campsites, but some appear to be closed. If you like staying in homestays like we do, you are in the perfect place! There are many cozy homestays in many villages and trust us, it is the best way to understand local culture and people. Even the main towns of Lahual, like Sissu, Keylong, Jispa, or Udaipur, are offbeat as they are not much tainted by tourism.
Food options in Lahaul:
This is an offbeat and upcoming place, so you must understand that you won’t get any so-called luxurious food here. Instead, try eating local in homestays, like us. They grow their vegetable and serve them. There is different satisfaction in those plates.
There are a few food joints and Dhaba on your way to Darcha and a few beyond Darcha. They serve Momos, Chowmein, Thukpa, and Maggi as well as basic Indian meals of Daal/Vegetable, rice and roti.
Number of days required
Many people do it as a day trip from Manali to Sissu.
If you want to explore in detail and learn about the culture, then 7-10 days are required.
Or you can take in between route, just like us, and have three days in this enigmatic place and take the essence and aura of it with you back home.
Our three days itinerary:
Day 1: Manali to Sissu via Atal tunnel. We also visited Solang Valley along the way. Explore Sissu and Tinan Valley and overnight in Sissu or a nearby village.
Day 2: Start early for Tod Valley up to Baralacha La and then return to Pattan Valley and visit Triloknath temple on the way. Overnight stay in Udaipur.
Day 3: Visit Miyar Valley and nearby places in Udaipur and bid farewell to this mesmerizing place with a box full of sweet memories!
Thanks to Hippie in Hills for their planning and to the point itinerary. Mr. Shubham was very keen and enthusiastic at each and every point and destination. Just trust them for your tour in Manali as well as Lahaul, Spiti, Zanskar and Leh Ladakh. They will plan a perfect trek as well as road trip for you.
Here are a few extra tips:
- Do not miss Miyar Valley. It is one of the most beautiful parts of Lahaul. We did not trek there but were in love with whatever we saw.
- Take sufficient warm clothes because whatever may be the season, the nights are always cold.
- There is no Vodafone network. Jio, BSNL and Airtel work perfectly fine. In Miyar Valley, there is only a BSNL network. We were lucky that Sheel got his Jio number just before coming here.
So this is a brief about the magic wonderland of Lahaul and how we ended up there. This is part of Himachal, which has been ignored for a long, but thanks to the Atal Tunnel, it is now easily accessible. Please don’t just stop at Sissu, and don’t visit this valley as a stop while making a road trip to Leh. There are many wonders and less explored places. We were also awestruck by the people of the valley who survive in the challenging climate but are always seen with innocent smiles and shiny eyes.
Please, keep this valley as pristine as it is now! Deep down, I feel the less tourism, the place is better, and Lahauli people also feel the same way because they had closed all tourist spots in January and February 2023, including all homestays, hotels and all eateries, for fifty days to offer silent prayers to Deities.
I will share about what places to visit in detail in the next few posts, so stay tuned!
Contact number of Hippie in Hills: 8978614753 / 9459914753
Thank you..
Kajal.
Thank u for a detailed description…we can finalize very easily our next trip…😀
Thank you…
wow. very Infrormative Blog .
Great Job Done by both of you.
Thank you…
Indeed an awesome place., we planned road trip from Baroda to Leh, but due to road closure we covered till Deepak Tal and returned.
Wow! Even we have to return from just before Suraj Tal. There was have traffic jam. May be next time during road trip to Leh.
Stop staring at mountains. Climb them instead, yes, it’s a harder process but it will lead you to a better view.
But in lahaul with motorable road around Hiking with hippies have proved that even u dont need to trek ! Just lazily move around
Those guys are the best. They know mountains like no other. And as you said we can go so close to mountains by road is the best part of this region!
Seems God gives signals to all of us but very few have that power to recognise !
Rachit often talks about you all and it feels heartening that you guys always make it feel so simple. Now reading to this post it seems that Even u guys face lots of issues but u dont consider them as problems but as a Signal
kudos to kids
It feels good to be lost in the right direction
Definitely agree with your last line. Thank you so much for appreciating. This was totally unexpected and we had enjoyed it thoroughly…
Go to Zanskar trek and it will mesmerise You
But with kids around u need loads and loads of preparation.
Zanskar is definitely on bucket list. Want to do it as road trip from Manali only. Let us see how can we plan it with kiddos!
Lovely ! You guys have shown the perfect balance one needs when roaming and especially with kids around , This was best
I have been across Keylong but never went off road to udaipur !
thanks for sharing
Thank you so much. Yes! Pattan and Miyar valleys are relatively less explored as compared to others.
Thanks Dr Kajal !
Never Known of this place ! Heard Spitti but this looks like gem. Eager to visit it after reading the post
keep posting
Same here. We have also heard about Spiti only and Sissu. But this entire valley is mesmerising. Thank u…
Really amazing…your love to nature is really appreciated..God bless you beta
Thank you so much uncle..🙏🏼