Sandakphu : Because Heaven is a Myth…
Hello all,
And as winter is remarkably turning into spring and we are near the end of the second month of the new year, we might want to look into the last two months. How has this new year treated us, and how have we greeted it? Are we on the right path to follow new dreams? Are we already in a denial mode of won’t be able to complete them? But one thing is for sure: fate has planned everything for us. We just have to accept it with wide open arms, embrace it positively, and feel grateful for whatever we have. That’s the lesson we have learned this new year.
Sometimes, we may feel the void, the missing part, the feeling of loss. It is like a void when you listen to Emraan Hashmi’s songs, and the irony is that those songs are therapy to fill that void. (If you don’t believe me, switch off the light at night, close your eyes and listen to songs of Aawarapan or Hamari Adhuri Kahani; there are many more, but start with these two). Similarly, mountains can cause a deep void and deep sense of need in you, and you won’t even realise when you become addicted to them because that urge of calmness, that profound peace which can fill up that void in your soul, will be fulfilled by them only!
That’s how we ended up in Sandakphu during this Uttarayan, the majestic place at the West-Bengal and Nepal border. This is the dream trek, where you don’t have to stay in tents. There are beautiful tea houses along the trail. You trek in India, and you stay in Nepal. And Satva was so fascinated by this fact that he was making constant videos of ‘Now I am in India, and Now I am in Nepal’.
We divide our journey into two parts. From Manebhanjan, we opted for a Land Rover ride, and we went up to Tumling. We stayed at Tumling for the night. On the way, we had lunch at Chitray, which is a small scenic village with amazing clearings and rolling hills.
We woke up early to view the sunrise from the Tumling sunrise viewpoint. Luck was not in our favour as the sky was full of clouds. We couldn’t see the sleeping Buddha, but now, as I see, that was for the best because we had our first view of the sleeping Buddha when we reached Sandakphu itself! So our excitement and our thrill are priceless! We started early as we had to go up to Kalapokhri, and what an amazing trail it is. There are a few army areas as this is the border region, and you have to show your photo ID here and register your name. We also met few Gujarati soldiers at one army camp. They were so delighted to see us.
The initial stretch up to Gairibas is downhill, with few paved segments and few forest sections and few stairs. The best part of the trail is the first sections with bamboo on either side, creating dense canopies forming the giant sieve, filtering the sunlight, and glistening the forest floor, creating a magical world around you! We were enveloped by the cosy breeze and surrounded by towering bamboo and rhododendron trees in the trails. The only missing thing was the carpet of rhododendron flowers, which would be there in late March/ early April. The trail was so unique, going deeper into the forest and suddenly opening into clearings with panoramic mountain views; the only sound we could hear was the crackling of leaves and the chirping of birds hidden in the trees. Sometimes, the noises were more like whispers, and yet they speak loudly if you are willing to listen, as if the trail is telling you to continue ahead and see heaven uphill.
After almost 6 km of flat and downhill trail, and a steep ascent of 3.5 km you will reach Kayakatta. You can have a short break here and after another 3.5 km of flat stretch with paved road, you will come to a small serene lake ornamented with multiple prayer flags. This is the village Kalapokhri. The sunset and sunrise from Kalapokhri are beautiful, but you have to wait for the miracles in the next few days.
sunset at Kalapokhri
Sunrise at Kalapokhri
The next day, you can start your day leisurely. From Kalapokhri, the trail is gradually ascending up to Bikhay Bhanjan, which means ‘poisonous valley’. It is named after the poisonous Aconite plants, which you can see in plenty in this region. You will also come across a frozen waterfall along the trail. There is a beautiful Stupa where you can go after a steep flight of stairs. After around 2 hours, the trail is quite steep with a continuous incline. The last 300 meters are extremely tiring but totally worthy for the views ahead. The trail goes through Motorable Road, but we suggest you take multiple shortcuts, passing through the scenic trails and amazing clearings. There are many staircases along those shortcuts.
Frozen waterfall 
The next day we went up to Thokum, and what an incredible day it was! Wild yaks roaming freely in those grasslands with mighty peaks in the background was breathtaking. There in those rolling hills of Thokum, we four were sitting peacefully, doing nothing, chatting all and none, laughing loudly or grinning silently, counting our blessings and feeling grateful for every single minute because we were at a place where we were meant to be! New dreams were forming in our minds, totally unaware of the storm that would follow us, but still, we are sure now also that we were genuinely grateful for that day, and we are heartfully grateful for this present. Sometimes we may encounter some obstacles, but maybe those are minor quibble in the grander scheme of things; as A quote by my recent favourite author, Emily Henry, “The same universe that dispassionately takes things away, can bring u things u weren’t imaginative enough to dream up..”
And that day, we witnessed the most stupefying, stunning, striking, soulful, shockingly beautiful sunset of our life. The one word that comes to mind while watching the sunset is stillness. As if everything was stopped there. In those mountains, in that setting sun, in those sinking clouds. In that sky, which was now a riot of colours. No light show in the world could match the live show we were witnessing! This stillness takes you to the place from where you can feel the vibrations of the universe. You can feel your presence among that vastness even though you know you are a mere dust particle. Your life, your work, and your worries from home don’t matter here. And you can understand this massive phenomenon called life. That sun was giving us the energy to withstand all the havoc of life, to face all chaos, to fight all challenges. Places like this and moments like these give us the vision, the understanding to go beyond our outer self, and the uncanny feeling of searching for our soul.
Don’t go all the way upto Aahl for sunset. There is one cliff just beyond Hotel Sunrise, the guide will take you there. It is the highest point of Sandakphu and it is very isolated and away from the crowd of Aahl. And do you know the best part? It was full moon night and we saw awespiring, jaw dropping moon rising above the clouds! It was the site to behold!
Moonrise at Sandakphu
The next morning was equally special as we saw the magnificent, marvellous sunrise, and it was out of the world. The beauty around us completely soaked us. The rising sun, the sea of clouds and the extravagant sky took our breath away. When the first rays of sun fell on the Sleeping Buddha, the birds started flipping there wings and flying in so much synchonization that we felt alive at every fraction of seconds. That’s what mountains do. That’s what a sunrise or sunset at Sandakphu can do. The moon setting in the foreground of the Everest is the moment to cherish with your heart and not to write.
Moonset at Sandakphu
Peaks we see from Sandakphu:
You can have the breathtaking experience of witnessing a panoramic view of four of the world’s highest peaks.
On the left side, you will have the majestic, Mightiest, Mindblowing Everest, Lhotse and Makalu peaks, which are the first, fourth and fifth highest peaks of the world, respectively and on your right side, you can see the gigantic, glorious, gorgeous Sleeping Buddha with dominant and striking Kanchenjunga Peak which is the 3rd highest mountain in the world
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Best time to do this trek:
In winter:
From November to February
The best part of winter is the cold wind and fewer crowds. You might get snowfall, and the advantage is the snowfall is not too severe and won’t affect the trails. Trails are mostly never blocked. You will get an amazing winter line during twilight. The angle of the sun in winter is such that the sky turns into a magical rangoli in shades of pink, purple, orange, red and yellow at dusk and dawn. The only downfall is the cold wind! As you are directly in front of the mightiest peaks on the planet, winds can be harsh! We felt that while we were climbing the final steep section to Sandakphu.
Hailstorm at Sandakphu
In spring:
From March to April.
This must be Magical, and we are telling this by the number of rhododendron trees we have witnessed on the trail. One of our fellow trekkers told us that the views are so marvellous that you won’t be able to decide where to look. The red, pink and white blooms of flowers will compensate for occasional clouds and showers.
Summer and monsoon:
May to August
Try to avoid it as it is the rainy season; trails will be slippery, and views are mostly obstructed.
In autumn.
September to November
According to our guide, this is the best time to see the Himalayan peaks, as the clear blue sky provides the perfect backdrop for the snowy peaks! But the only downside is the crowd. We were supposed to do this trek during Navratri, but our guide told us to avoid it as there is a massive crowd during Durga Pujo time every year. And that’s how we went for the Beas Kund trek during Navrtrau last year.
Temperature:
Winter : 8-12 degrees during the day and 0- -5 degrees at night
Spring : 12-16 degrees during the day and 1-5 degrees at night
Autumn: 10-15 degrees during the day and 0-4 degrees at night
Difficulty level:
Moderate, especially the final steep section of Sandakphu and a long trail of Sandakphu to Phalut, it will definitely test your stamina.
However, the best part is you can also go up to Sandakphu by road in Land Rover. We reached the peak on trails but we came back by Land Rover to reduce the number of days.
Duration:
Depending on where you start and up to where you want to go.
But you will Atleast need 5-8 days.
Distance:
From Chitray to Tumling: 9 Km – 6 hours
From Tumling to Kalapokhri : 15 km – 6-8 hrs.
From Kalapokhri to Sandakphu : 6 km – 3-4 hours
From Sandakphu to Phalut : 21 km – 8-10 hours.
Altitude:
Chitrey: 2360 m, 7740 ft
Tumling : 2920 m, 9580 ft
Kalapokhri : 3030 m, 9940 ft
Sandakphu : 3636 m, 11930 ft
Phalut: 3600m, 11800ft
Why is Sandakphu special?
Sandakphu is the heaven located in the Singalila National Park. You can get diverse varieties of flora and fauna here. You can see one of the most sublime peaks from here. The energising air, exhilarating views, extraordinary sunrises and sunsets, exciting trails and the essence of the Himalayas. Combine all these with kind-hearted people and their warm hospitality- This is Sandakphu for you.
Trust us when we say this: You should do this trek only for the sunrise and sunset. When the clouds from above get down below you like an ocean and when the sky in front of you becomes a giant canvas, the sleeping Buddha massif along with the Everest ranges might question your identity; you will get your answers in that wind, tears will start rolling down your cheeks, and you won’t even notice.
The other amazing part of the trek is a superb amalgamation of Nepali and Indian cultures. The friendliness of Nepali people will melt your heart. It is one of those trek where nature and culture blend in perfect harmony.
So, if you want to do one Himalayan trek from India, do this without thinking twice.
It is like entire “Kun Faya Kun” song on one side and “Sajra Savera Mere Tan Barse” on the other side…It is like entire “Agar tum sath ho” one one side, and “Teri nazro me” on the other side…It is like “Leja Muje sath tere” on one side and “Sun mere khuda” on other side…It is like the movie Karwaan on one side, and its songs on the other side…It is like “Hawayein” in Arijit’s voice will leave you mesmerized, but you still crave for “Ghar” in Nikita’s voice…It is like a simple nod of Piku, on Rana’s “Mein phone karunga”…
You don’t know the reasons why the other ones are special but they are the reasons you loved the first ones.
Sharing you the number of our guide. He can manage everything for you. Homestays and porter and cab from Bagdodra also. He is very enthusiastic karaoke lover who is passionate about mountains…
Mr. Arpan : 9735030398
Our stay:
Tumling : Shikhar Lodge
Sandakphu : Sherpa’s Chalet
Thank you…
Heartiest congratulations for doing it with kids
it’s hidden treasure not everyone have!
Keep smiling.. god bless you!
Thanks…
God bless you…
Your nature and kindness reflect your upbringing… pass it on..
Thank you sir..
Mind blowing pics.Extra ordinary description pertaing individual places. Hats of your planning for every thing.
…👍👌🏻
Thank you…
Simply beautiful…. read the blog early morning while everyone is sleeping. For a while I felt I am there. Awesome … hopefully will be able to go there one day
Thank you so much dear… surely. We will go together.
💥congratution 💥
Thank you.
Sir .Great enthusiasm for travelling..and your write up is also amazing…you should write a book…and i should definitely ask you for suggestions for my next trip
Thank you…
Beautiful pics. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you…
It was very well written. The description is so meticulous that, not a single thing is missing! Even for one who has not done such, will be tempted to go for it.
Keep sending and make us happy by virtual tour. Will keep all such information. If an opportunity arises, I will definitely visit it.
Thank you so much for kind words…