Tungnath-Chandrashila : Climb to the highest Shiv temple in the world
Hello all,
If Nag Tibba was our winter wonderland, this place was nothing less than a stupefying spring surprise. We expected snow at the peak, but we got snow from the beginning of the trek, which was never in our dream. It was beyond our imagination, so how can I put it into words? I don’t know. But let me try!
There is something about these snowy peaks and these majestic, magnificent, magical mountains that send some instinctual signals and pull us towards them. Yes! That is the magic of mountains. And to get lost in that magic, we went to Tungnath Chandrashila the previous month, after kids’ exams were over.
What can I say about this fantastic place? This trail has everything you have dreamed of from mythological point to religious, from scenic to adventurous.
About the place: Because we all love stories.
Tungnath:
Tungnath temple is located on Chandranath mountain in Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand, and it is the highest Shiv temple in the world at an altitude of 3,680 meters (12,073 ft)
The story of Tungnath
After the Mahabharat battle, Pandavas were devastated, and they felt remorse and wanted forgiveness from Lord Shiv. So in search of Lord Shiv, they went to Varanasi at Kashi Vishwanath Temple. But Lord Shiv was extremely angry with Pandavas and didn’t want to vindicate them for their sins, ghastly actions, and dishonesty. So he took a form of a bull and hid in the mountains of the Garhwal region. Confused yet determined, Pandavas went to Narad Muni, who informed them about the transformation of Lord Shiv. So Bhim took the matter into his hands, and he searched for the bull. He found the bull in Guptkashi, tried to chase it, and caught it by its tail and hind legs. But the bull then disappeared into the ground. He reappeared in different parts at different places– the hump at Kedarnath, the arms at Tungnath, the navel, the stomach at Madhyamaheshwar, the face at Rudranath, and the hairs at Kalpeshwar. Pandavas built temples at all five locations and worshipped Lord Shiv at Kedarnath for salvation, and eventually, they were freed from their sins. As per folktales, foundation of Tungnath was done by Arjun, the third Pandav. Temple of Tungnath was discovered by Adi Shankacharya. All Panch Kedar Temples have the same architectural pattern, with the Kedarnath, Tungnath, and Madhyamaheshwar temples looking almost similar.
The story of Chandrashilla:
Chandrashila is the summit of the Chandranath Parbat. According to Kedarkhand, Lord Shiv was meditated by the moon for salvation here. Moon was suffering from the optic disease. King Daksha Prajapati had twenty-seven daughters, and his girl named Rohini was loved by the moon. The king cursed the moon, and the moon got his optic disease. For this, he did his penance here.
It is also said that Lord Ram meditated here after defeating Ravan and killing him . There is a small temple dedicated of River Ganga at the summit.
About the trail:
The trail for both treks starts at Chopta, a small village along the road. Trek to Tungnath is 4 km long with an elevation gain from 2,680 meters (8,790 ft) of Chopta to 3,680 meters (12,073 ft). And Chandrashila is 1 km from Tungnath with an altitude gain of appx 1000 meters. The altitude of Chnadrashila is 4,000 meters /13,120 ft.
You can do this trek in two ways:
- From sari village -> Deoriatal -> Rohini Bugyal (appx 14-15 km) -> Baniya Kund -> Chopta (it will take 3 nights and 4 days from Sari to Sari)
- You can stay in Sari or Chopta, and by car, you can go to the starting point of your trek. (Just one day if you are not staying at Tungnath)
On our last trek to Dayara, we went camping, so the kids wanted a camping free trek this time. That was one of the main reasons we selected this trek because it is one of the few treks we can do in a day.
The trail to Tungnath is well-maintained and paved to the temple. There are railings along the valley side. But in our case, the entire paved path was covered with snow. We didn’t have snow spikes, and as the route was slippery at places, we walked along the trail just beside the paved path. Trek to Tungnath can be done as a DIY trek. But as we go with kids, we always take a guide, and this time our guide was an amazing person and true devote of Lord Shiv, Mr.Sonu. He helped us at every level and encouraged kids to go ahead without fear.
Just after climbing a few stairs, there is a Tungnath check post. Here you have to do an entry and note down if you are carrying any plastic items. Then start the forest trail with rhododendron trees on either side with different shades of pink. It was mind-boggling. Now we know why spring is one of the best times to do this trek. Because of these magical flowers! The snowy white fur-like flakes on pine trees were giving Christmas vibes at March end.
After about 45 min to one hour in your climb, you enter the world of bugyals. The first one is Bhoojgali bugyal. On that day entire bugyal was covered with a carpet of glistening white snow. How beautiful this bugyal must be looking in summer and autumn! There is a small café there called Mahaveer café. Shaurya was flabbergasted seeing all snow, and he was unleashed and started climbing on his own from this stage.
One thing we loved about this trek is you get a panoramic view of snowy Himalayan peaks on your left side. Peaks of Gangotri range, Mt Thalaysagar, the Kedarnath and the Kedar dome, Sumeru Parbat, Kharchakund, Bhagirathi Parbat, Mandani Parbat, and Janhukut. But the most prominent is the spectacular and stunning Chaukhamba.
There are a few huts along the way with rest stops. A few shops are also there, but they were closed due to snow. There is also a cute little Ganesh temple along the way. The weather started changing color when we were almost halfway to the temple. And the trail is also begun to get steeper from here. The clouds were turning darker, hovering over our heads and literally hugging the peaks. Many people were returning back as there was no surety of the weather. But few were encouraging and told us to continue to the temple and not to go beyond that as we have kids. There was knee-deep snow on the way to Chandrashila, and with chameleon-like weather better, we should not take any chance. We just went with the flow and continued our journey. Please take care during this climb as a few of the rails are loose, so better to have trekking poles and get support with them.
There are many shops with few stays just below the temple. But all were closed. All of them will open once the temple opens. We had planned to stay here if they got open and go the Chandrashila for sunrise. But as with the entire Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh, the snow had a different mindset this year, and it doesn’t want to get into all seasonal differentiation. So what winter and what spring! Global warming has no seasonal bar at all!
Temple remains open for only a few months of the year, usually between late April/ May to October or November (up until Diwali). Once winter sets in, there is a lot of snowfall in this region, so priests along with the symbol of deity, are moved to Markandeshwar Temple in Makkumath village, 19 km from Tungnath. The dates of moving the deity are decided by the priest.
The temple gate was closed during our visit. But just beside the temple, there is a small peak, and we sat there quietly. Our companions were one Italian couple, one young couple from Delhi, and a few other trekkers. One trail on the left side will take you to Chandrashila Peak. We could see it from where we were sitting, but the giant grey clouds were partying around the ridge, which looked scary. A few other trekkers were going there but not us. The check post people have already warned us not to go to Chandrashila Peak, and it won’t be their responsibility if anybody goes there.
So we were happy with the clouds, our view, and us. The peaks, our companions during the entire trek, were now hidden behind the clouds. Whenever we are among these peaks, there is no past and no future. We are there just in that moment. We can understand the value of the present. Seconds, minutes, or hours don’t matter here. Just a moment. We doubt our identity, yet we feel the being alive. Here we are the storytellers, and we are the listeners. We ask questions, and we get silent yet significant and life-changing answers.
There is another place called Ravanshila. For that, you have to take a little detour. But the kids were exhausted and eager to get down, and descending was the best part of the trek for them. It is said that Ravan did his penance here to please Lord Shiv, and you have to ask the locals about that.
Peaks we can see from Tungnath and Chandrashila:
This trek offers a phenomenal and picture-perfect panoramic view of the Garhwal and Kumaon Himalayan ranges.
On the left side are the Gangotri range, Mt Thalaysagar, the Kedarnath and the Kedar Dome, Sumeru Parbat, Kharchakund, and Bhagirathi Parbat, Mandani Parbat, Janhukutaand, and massive Chaukhamba. On the right side, there is Gauri Parbat and Hathi Parbat. And in front are Mt Nanda Devi, Mt Nanda Ghunti, and Mt Trishul.
Trek level:
Moderate. Many people will say it is easy, but if you are going with kids, it is a moderate trek, especially if you are going in the snow.
Points to consider:
- Carry adequate water and keep yourself hydrated as you gain an altitude of approximately 3000-4000 feet.
- A trekking pole is a must. Better take two.
- Wear quick dry clothes.
- Weather is unpredictable, so take a poncho also with you.
- Please wear shoes with proper grip. If going in winter or spring, please take snow spikes.
At the base, just around the entry gate, a few shops have rental trekking sticks and shoes available for rent. So if you are going without proper gear, don’t worry; you can always take them for rent.
How to reach Chopta?
Nearest railway station: Haridwar – 230 km away and Rishikesh – 206 km away.
From Bothe of these places taxis and buses are available.
Nearest airport: Jolly Grant airport, Dehradun, located 221 km away from Chopta.
Which season is best for Tungnath Chandrashila Trek?
Winter (November – February)
The temple will be closed as it gets freezing. You will have snow from the start of the trail in December and January and will continue until February. The entire landscape is covered with a thick white blanket.
Spring (March – April)
It is the best time, as there will be remaining winter snow at the peaks, and the rhododendron will be in full bloom, so you will get the trails covered with pink flowers. But if you have luck like us, you will have trails like true winter! The weather will also be pleasant, with warm days and cold nights.
Summer (May-early June)
The best point of this season is the climb to Chandrashila Peak is entirely accessible without any hindrance from the weather or snow. The bugyal is lush green, and the climate remains pleasant. However, carry woolen clothes, as the nights are always cold here.
Monsoon (Late June – August)
June to August is monsoon; better one should avoid it as the region is prone to landslides.
Autumn (September – October)
September and October are also one of the best times. The post-monsoon greenery is at its best, with crisp autumn air and a clear sky with a fantastic view of peaks. Again the nights are cold.
Himalayan peaks nurture you in a way nobody can. They make you feel infinitesimal in this vast universe. They make you alive, and, concise and conscious. It changes your perspective on everything. So don’t wait and if possible just go. And the best part about this place is that you can go in any season, and Tungnath-Chandrashila will have much to offer. It is just up to us what we want to ask and what we want to gain from it.
If you like this blog, please don’t forget to share and tell us your views in the comment section.
That is all from our Uttarakhand diaries.
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Lovely ! Kudos to lovely kids
cheers to trekking family
Thank you…
Written to perfection ! It feels as if i was there with you
Thank you so much..🙏🏼